You’ve got a project that needs a table top. You’re sold on the practicality of glass. We are so pleased! There are many different options and decisions you need to make when specifying a table top or countertop for your job. In today’s article, we’ll walk you through some of the many choices and options available.
- We cut from glass sheets that are 96″ x 144″ – however, to fabricate edgework requires a cut in from the edge so if you want anything other than a clean cut edge rectangle, you’ll have to go a touch smaller.
- Standard industry tolerances are +/- 1/16 inch,…so if it has to be inset into a frame, allow your measurements to account for it.
- Keep in mind some edgework fabrication equipment may not be able to handle glass at max size due to weight or bed size constraints.
- Consider how the table is going to get into the space – is the door big enough? Can it make the turn in the hallway? You’d be surprised how often this needs to be addressed and you have to remember that glass simply will not bend.
Shape – other than a rectangle?
- All ovals are not the same shape – same goes for archtops or “racetracks” – these tend to be special patterns, that need a pattern or CAD file.
- CAD drawings in a .dxf format work best for our water jet cutting capabilities and reduces any mis-communication.
- Not all cuts can be achieved, that is why it’s important for us to see the actual pattern at the time of quote. Tight inside 90º corners are impossible to be polished by our machinery. If it’s tempered, we have to make sure any holes are a certain distance from the edge. Let us review it to eliminate any problems early in the project.
Thickness of the glass:
- This depends on the size of the glass, its support and the weight it would be carrying – ask your glazier if you’re uncertain.
- Generally, if it’s on top of a full surface – annealed (non-tempered) glass is safe enough to use and is usually only 1/4 inch (6mm) thick.
- If there’s a “pass through” possibility, it’s usually better to temper the glass regardless of what the local codes may allow.
- “Heavy glass” of 1/2 inch (12mm) thick or more,…and even then it may depend on the overall size of the piece and its use.
- For table tops, we recommend going no thinner than 1/4″ (6mm) and up to 1″ thick (25mm), but depending on the size either of those extremes may not be acceptable to the project.
- NOTE: tempered glass is usually stamped with a baked-on permanent ink to prove that it has been tempered. If you don’t want that stamp showing on your final piece, be sure to dictate as such. We can provide you with a document proving the piece was tempered if you require it.
Any additional fabrication?
- Holes for a patio table pole
- Holes to hide computer wires in a desk or reception area
- Cut outs for undermount sinks (with edgework) or for a top-mount sink (won’t require edgework)
- Holes for in-counter cooktops
Type of the glass:
- Tempered or Annealed
- Tempered glass is much stronger, slightly less susceptible to scratches, and if it does break, it will form the tiny nuggests that are less likely to cause harm.
- Annealed glass will work fine for many situations that are either backed by a solid surface, so that it isn’t a “punch through” hazard or where the glass is very thick.
Color of the glass:
- Regular clear glass
- Low-iron Starphire® Ultra-Clear glass
- Dreamwalls Color Glass backpainted glass – any color you specify is easily possible
- Antique Mirrors – in regular or tints
- Mirrors for a bright surface
- Acid-etched glass (in regular or low-iron) can offer some interesting under-lighting effects, or be backpainted for a lustrous finish that doesn’t show finger prints
Lots of things to consider, right? Never fear. If you get stumped at any time while making your decisions, just give us a call. We’ll try to help steer you towards the right solution for your design need. 800-334-7267. Just comment with your question, or e-mail me direct at email@example.com