Good customer service starts with taking a good look at yourself!

Working for a mirror manufacturer has its advantages. I am surrounded by mirrors. Down every hallway and around every corner in our offices, there’s likely to be one. When I was new, it was a little unnerving; but now I’ve become very comfortable with my own reflection. (No one ever has to tell you your slip is showing or you have broccoli in your teeth around here!)

So it was easy for me to find the perfect customer service tool for improving the quality of my interactions: Mirrors. I have a mirror on the wall directly in front of my desk, as well as a small one to my right side (where my phone is angled).  This means that when I’m talking to customer or vendors via phone, I can visually check myself.

What do I check in the mirror? These 3 basic things:

1) Am I smiling? The smile ALWAYS comes through your voice and makes a difference.
2) Do I look calm and cool? That’s the type of person customers are needing me to be, so it’s important to project the proper self.
3) Am I present? If I’m able to address my own reflection like the customer, I’m not also checking e-mail, filing paperwork, or doing other tasks which take away from the customer’s experience.They have my full attention.

Once you let go of your preconceived notions of vanity, it will greatly improve the quality of your phone conversations. To think more about customer service and the person in the mirror, this article by Don Crawley (an expert in helping IT folks finesse their customer service skills) talks more in depth about some of the subtle messages we send to our customers and vendors when we don’t use positivity, empathy and confidence, by first looking at the person in the mirror in customer service. I’m just perhaps a little more literal than most,….but I tell you, it works!

Give it a try and let me know the results,…I’m curious to hear your feedback.

Glass showers are a beauties in the bathroom, but many people still shy away from them. Cleaning the glass is one of the reasons they cite for not jumping on board. This baffles me. No matter if it’s ceramic or a fiberglass surround, ya gotta clean it. Nobody likes to do it, but it must be done. Glass is one of the easier materials to keep clean because of its non-porous nature.

To keep your glass shower looking like new, you need to do just a little post-shower maintenance. It’s not a full-out cleaning, and before you know it, it’ll be part of your shower routine. These tips apply to clear glass shower doors, but can also easily apply to Dreamwalls Color Glass interior shower walls.

Method Daily Shower Spray

Spray Away

I’ve read about people using crazy things from dryer sheets to cooking spray to clean their glass shower. But let’s just keep it simple. Shower cleaners are designed specifically to tackle mildew better than regular window glass cleaners. I like Method Daily Shower Spray because it’s eco-friendly and seems to work well.  I think it smells decent, so don’t be stingy. Spray the whole door and walls down liberally. Then I grab my towel and dry myself off before the next step. But overall, once the shower is clean, it’s fairly easy to keep it that way. I just stick to my routine, and life is good. An ounce of prevention….

Gee, a Squeegee

This is the next step to a lovely shower. Use a squeegee to remove excess water and soap after each shower. OXO makes good ones for little money. This is key to keeping the shower looking good for a long time. Allowing hard water to remain on the door can “etch” the glass or pit the metal hardware over time. Just squeegee the walls down and I find there’s a zen element to the routine.

Ventilate

This may be the most important tip. To discourage mildew growth in the shower, be sure the bathroom is well ventilated. If your shower is a “steam shower” that spans all the way to the ceiling, be sure to open a transom or the door to allow air to circulate. Turn on exhaust fans to help remove excess moisture from the room. This will be good for ALL the glass products in your bathroom, including your mirrors.

OXO Squeegee

Protect it

Some manufacturers use special glass that is coated with special coatings to make water sheet off. Clarvista™ is a type of glass from the float glass manufacturer that has it applied, then there are others with varying benefits and test results such as EnduroSheild™ . Your shower door dealer may offer these options, and they are a real advantage. It’s important to follow those manufacturer’s directions on care and cleaning. They may require special cleaners or suggested maintenece. But these products allow water to bead up and roll off, or sheet off, resulting in less cleaning time, without your need to re-apply or coat the glass ever.

EnduroSheild™ even sells an OTC version of their product for your home application. If you use Dreamwalls Color Glass for your shower walls, you can treat the glass shower door AND the walls at the same time and have a shower that is easier to clean, doesn’t water spot, and is free of soap-scum. For a lower end, short term solution, you could use an over-the-counter solution such as  Rain-X, a product for automotive windows. Keep in mind it can make the glass a little cloudy if you put on too much or fail to buff it out enough, and it does wear off over time so you’ll need to re-apply every few months.

BEMA Knows Best

According to BEMA, the Bath Enclosures Manufacturer’s Association, there are a few cleaning agents which you should never use on your glass shower enclosure:

• Vinegar or vinegar-based products – while good for getting off hard water stains off of glass, it can pit metal hardware over time.
• Abrasive or soft abrasive powders and liquids
• Bleach or bleach-based cleaners – and the fumes are not really a great idea for any small, enclosed space
• Steel or Teflon pads

If you have a glass cleaning challenge, let me know and I’ll be happy to take a look at it.

“Cleaning your house while your kids are still growing is like shoveling the walk before it stops snowing.”

~Phyllis Diller
Phyllis Diller’s Housekeeping Hints, 1966

Degredation via Aggressive Cleaning

Sometimes, you’ll notice mirrors with “black edge”. This is the result of the edges being exposed to moisture, oils, or chemicals that have corrupted the edge and separated either the layers from the glass, or the layers from one another. Does it happen with one brief exposure? Usually it is caused by repeated and prolonged exposure which can cause this damage.

Ammonia is a common – and extremely harsh – cleaning additive that can accelerate the degenerative process even faster. Hotels and other institutions often use these harsh cleaners with their maid services, and so this separation is sometimes referred to as “housekeeper’s mark”. Efficient cleaning professionals will sometimes spray the cleaner onto the mirror and other surfaces while cleaning a room, but this leads to the cleaner dripping down the face of the mirror and pooling at the edge. This is the reason why we only recommend spraying cleaners on a rag, then gently wiping the surface clean. Never directly spray a mirror with cleaner to prevent overspray or pooling at the edge.

Focus on these 5 things when caring for your mirror:

• Keep bathrooms well-ventilated during showers to avoid condensation that can run and pool at the edge
• Never use ammonia-inclusive cleaners on your mirrors
• Never spray cleaners directly on a mirror. Spray a rag first, then wipe
• Always protect the edge from excessive moisture. If you design the mirror to meet a countertop, be mindful to keep that countertop dry, or seal it with a silicone that is safe for use on mirrors.
• When in doubt, gentler is better. A clean cloth damp with water can actually clean a mirror exceedingly well. But even water should not be allowed to pool at the edge.
• An old photographer’s trick is to wipe a mirror with newsprint to avoid lint. It’s a nice finish.

To find a REALLY detailed account on how to clean mirror s from the Glass Association of North America, download the glass informational bulletin “Proper Procedures for Cleaning Flat Glass Mirrors” at the GANA website. (scroll down to the mirror division portion for all the mirror-specific bulletins).

Glass counter top with double vanity undermount sinks

Glass is a relatively new option in counter tops. With a wide variety of decorative finishes and custom colors that can be applied to it, glass can certainly be an attractive option. But how does it stack up against other counter top materials? In this post, I’ll compare the pros and cons of each counter top option, so you can decide where glass might work for your project. They’re arranged in general installed price, from high to low.

• MARBLE/NATURAL STONE: $100-200 per sq. ft. Known for their beauty and unique patterns from nature, marbles can be a high-maintenence choice and require a bit of babying. Lighter colors stain easily, and all colors can show cuts and abrasions, are sensitive to sudden temperature changes, and can be scorched with high heat. Regular sealing must be part of it’s routine in order to stay beautiful. They are best found at a stone yard, where you choose the exact piece of stone to be used in your project.

• STAINLESS STEEL: $100-150 per sq. ft. Stainless is very popular now with the popularity of stainless steel appliances in kitchens. It can be difficult to find a local fabricator to custom form, but it is extremely resistant to heat and stains. It can dent easily with impact, and higher polished finishes show scratches very easily. Constant cleaning of fingerprints is a common complaint in high traffic/serving areas, however brushed and patterned finishes can reduce that complaint.

• CONCRETE: $80-120 per sq. ft. This product can be tinted to coordinate with decor, and can include stone or other products imbedded into the surface. Since they are most commonly formed on-site, they are often only as good as the installer. They can crack and chip relatively easily. Concrete also needs routine sealing maintenance to resist staining and damage from heat.
• 

• GLASS: $65-150 per sq. ft. With literally any color option, it lends a new possibility to the term “custom kitchen”. Glass is the only product on this list that can be color-specified to match a specific paint, Pantone, or RAL color. While still sensitive to impact and cuts, minor surface scratches can be buffed out with #0000 steel wool. No sealing is required and it will not stain. Dried on foods can be scraped off with a single-sided razor blade. It can be sensitive to sudden temperature changes and high heat like fine marble and natural stone. It is ideal for dining/serving areas and in areas with high moisture such as wet bars or around sinks. New digital imaging options, like that of Dreamwalls Marble Glass can also create marble and stone looks on glass,….or really any image you desire. However, custom images will greatly affect the price based on the size, resolution, and complexity of the image. It can also come in a wide variety of tile sizes and shapes, for additional flexibility.

• QUARTZ: $50-100 per sq. ft. Contrary to popular belief, quartz is not 100% natural stone. It is created using stone chips added to resins to create a realistic stone look. Because of the resins, they are strong and durable and resistant to stains. They also don’t need to be sealed, like its real stone cousins. It is a great solution for the main prep areas, as it stands up to heat, cuts, abrasions, and impacts very well. It is sold at a wide variety of retailers,  speciality shops, and home improvement chains.

• GRANITE: and other natural stone:$45-150 per sq. ft. While granite is incredibly strong, other stones like  limestone, slate, soapstone, and sandstone can be softer or more brittle. They all need regular resealing for stain resistance. Colors and patterns can vary widely and affect price.  It is best purchased at a stone yard where the exact piece you want to purchase can be hand-picked because of the unique natural patterns and colorations of the product.

• BUTCHER BLOCK: $30-65 per sq. ft. Useful for work and prep areas, butcher block is easy to install and repair. Heat can stain it and impacts can dent it, but major cuts and scrapes can be sanded out. It needs to be treated regularly with oil, wax or other treatment to prevent cracking. It also is very sensitive to high humidity and moisture, so use near a sink, dishwasher, or wet bar is not ideal. Maple, red oak, and teak are the most popular woods used. Butcher block can be purchased at a wide variety of retailers.

• ENGINEERED STONE: $35-100 per sq. ft. Also called “solid surfacing”, this is made by mixing resins with mineral filler to imitate concrete, marble and other stone. They are very durable and can be joined seamlessly. It nicks and shows cuts easily, but can be buffed out or repaired. Lighter colors may stain as easily as the original stone it imitates, but they generally don’t require sealing. They can be purchased at a wide variety of retailers.

• CERAMIC TILE: $10-75 per sq. ft. Lots of designs are possible in tiles, and many can be inexpensive choices. Grout joints tend to grab on to food and stains, and they can be easily broken, but also relatively easily replaced and install. These are available for DIY, or installed by a wide variety of retailers from speciality tile shops to home improvement chains.

• LAMINATE: $10-35 per sq. ft.  It has a huge array of colors and patterns, is lightweight and relatively easy to install. It is relatively resistant to stains, heat, and impacts as well. The thin layers show damage of nicks and cuts and can’t be repaired. Seaming and the edge lines tend to turn people off, although there are some newer versions that are pre-formed to feature no seams at the backsplash and waterfall edges that are higher priced. It can be available for DIY, or installed by a wide variety of retailers from speciality tile shops to home improvement chains.

Glass Serving Area - courtesy Downsview Kitchen Studio

I would remind you that a counter top installation is only as good as the installer. They need to stand by the accuracy of their templates and their installation and  for a quality job. So be sure you don’t just fall in love with a display on a showroom floor design. Always do the research of getting referrals and references of the shop and go in armed with the real pros and cons of each material to find the right pro to do the job.

So ultimately, which material is right for your project? It could be a variety of several. It might be quartz in the main zones, butcher block in the prep area, marble for a pastry slab and a shot of colorful Dreamwalls Color Glass at the serving and eating areas. We are living in fine times where a variety of options are available for any project, depending on the task and performance needed.

Jim Minton installing Dreamwalls Color Glass Wainscotting

So many designers fall in love with Dreamwalls® Color Glass as soon as they understand the benefits of hygiene, care, and custom color that it provides. But the next question is always, “Is it difficult to install?” For a designer, you just need to find a good, quality glass or mirror shop. We’ve also worked with some amazing tile installers, glazing contractors, stone shops and kitchen shops. They can all work with this product. Even if they don’t install any color glass now, it installs just as easy as a piece of mirror. However, it’s still not a mirror and the adhesives used are different,…however you do have many more choices.

Installed Dreamwalls Color Glass wainstotting waiting for matching outlet covers.

Dreamwalls® Color Glass can be mounted to any number of surfaces. The biggest determining factor is being certain that the mounting substrate is prepared adequately for the adhesive which you plan to use for installation. Always be sure that the adhesive is applied according to the manufacturer’s directions and that the substrate is sealed properly according to all manufacturer’s instructions.

Application of Approved Adhesives and Tape

Below are adhesives that have been used successfully with Dreamwalls® Color Glass. Always follow the adhesive manufacturer’s instructions regardless of the installation method you choose. Please note that Gardner Glass can only recommend these adhesives based upon our testing experience. They have shown excellent adhesion, non-corrosive properties, and no bleed-through or shadowing. The pH of these products has not been an issue with Dreamwalls® Color Glass. Gardner Glass Products, Inc. always recommends using a mechanical fastener in conjunction with any adhesive to support the weight of the glass. The below have been tested with bare sheetrock, sheetrock with properly cured primer, and sheet rock with properly cured latex paint. Any other surface should be tested by the installer prior to project installation.

BRAND/ DESCRIPTION

• Dow Corning 795 Silicone Building Sealant
• Dow Corning 995 Silicone Structural Sealant
• DAP 100% silicone rubber sealant (clear)
• 3M 1/16” 4466W rubber double-sided tape (tape should always be used with additional installation methods)
• 3M 3/32” 4462W rubber double-sided tape (tape should always be used with additional installation methods)

We have also successfully tested the following grout products on our Dreamwalls Color Glass Tile:

• Mapei Thin Set Mortar
• Laticrete Premium Multi-Mastic Adhesive
• Mapei Adesilex P10 Mortar with Keraply
• Mapei Unsanded Adhesive & Grout
• Laticrete Unsanded Wall Grout

The information above is offered in good faith, and is believed to be accurate and up-to-date as of February 20th, 2012. For the latest, most up-to-date list, please visit our Technical Page of our website. However, because products made by other manufacturers are beyond our control, this information should not be used in substitution for customer’s tests to ensure that the installation is safe, effective, and fully satisfactory for the intended end use.

Partial Dramwalls Color Glass installation with the wall painted to match for expansion gap - Let us know if you need extra paint for this purpose.

And now, for the legal part of our post today:

[Gardner Glass Products, Inc. disclaims any implied warranty of fitness for a particular purpose or merchantability of the above products. Gardner Glass Products disclaims liability for any incidental or consequential damages resulting from use of any of the mentioned products.]

In this brief video, I show you some tips and tricks to hanging a framed mirror securely and easily. The video quality isn’t the best, but I hope it’s informative.

Main tips to remember:

1. Use picture hanging hooks that can handle the proper weight of your mirror
2. Hang mirrors directly from the d-rings
3. Never use picture hanging wire
4. And don’t be afraid to mark your walls to help you hang a mirror solo

Do you have a mirror hanging question you’d like for me to address? I’ve hung a LOT of them over the years and would love to help!

A lot people have fireplaces in their home that no longer function as such. The mantles are fantastic architectural details, however, and it’s expensive – or violates rental agreements – to do away with them. So below are some ways that designers have used mirrors to add more life to their unused fireplaces, with beautiful – and practical – results.

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This one is a wrought iron fireplace screen that was lined with plexiglass mirrors, although any mirror could look really cool in this way.

Unplggd

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Not only is this a good solution for an unusable fireplace, but it could serve as storage for my husband’s many blueprints.

Kara Paslay Designs

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Simple and understated, it’s a beautiful way to reflect the colors of the upholstered furniture back into the room.

Abode Love

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I love how it reflects the very graphic carpet. Yummy!

Real Simple

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Not sure if this is right for you? Try a temporary option of a grouping of framed mirrors in the fireplace. You might even want to add some of those battery-powered candles in front to reference the fireplace’s former function.

Lindo Designs

So as you hang your stocking this season, think about your fireplace and how to fully utilize it into not just an architectural element of your room, but as a way to expand the light, pattern and color by using mirror.

I am a Southern girl, so I believe cooking for my family, co-workers, and friends is one way to show them I love them. But to cook a big meal every night? I just can’t make that model of domesticity work for me. So I’m a “weekend warrior” in the kitchen. Since the oven is hot anyway, I’ll make 3 dishes at a time,…or I double the batches so that I can freeze some for later,…or I use a base recipe and dual-purpose it as a filling, and a sauce. So believe that anything I post will be:

1. fast or without a lot of prepwork
2. simple ingredients
3. multi-purpose or extremely flexible for a family

And thus begins “Foodie Friday”. Holly will be contributing to the posts too,…and she’s awesome. She’s young and vibrant, so her recipes will border more along the lines of fun food, great for get-togethers with friends. But regardless of who is in the kitchen, we’re hoping you have fun with these regular Friday explorations.

Easy Peach Pie

Easy Peach Pie

• 2 – (top & bottom) Prepackaged, refrigerated pie crusts (I used Pillsbury)
• Approx. 8-10 fresh peaches – skinned, pitted, and sliced
• juice of 1/2 lemon

• 1/2 c. white sugar
• 1/2 c. brown sugar
• 1/4 TBSP cinnamon
• 1 tsp cornstarch
• 1/4 c. spreadable butter (I used a version with Canola Oil) it was softer to work with than regular butter
• 1/3 c. all purpose flour

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Prep:

I peeled & sliced up the peaches the day before. It is the most time consuming part of the whole deal, and I’m always strapped for time. But also, they could drain a little bit of their excess juice out. I am not a fan of  soggy pie. After slicing, squeeze the lemon juice on the peaches and give them a toss. This will save them from turning brown. Also, read the pie crust directions,…you usually have to leave them out to thaw a little before you use it. Check the package so you’re not rushing the dough.

Ready to Bake:

• Preheat oven to 450 degrees.
• Cut the dry ingredients and butter together. Mix until it makes a crumbly texture.
• Place the bottom pie dough in the pan. Greasing isn’t necessary. Make sure you’re not trapping any air bubbles.
• Place a layer of peaches, followed by sprinkling the mixture. (Usually 3 layers) Finish with all remaining crumble on top.
• Cut top crust dough into strips. Line 5 strips along each of 2 adjacent sides. Then just weave like a basket. Folding the strips back as you work across.
• Bake in oven at 450 degrees for 15 minutes. Then cut back temperature to 350 degrees and cook an additional 30 minutes.
• Cut off  oven completely, and let pie sit in oven for an additional 1 hr. This makes the filling thicker and the crust won’t burn.
• Remove pie from oven and let it cool another 20 minutes or so, and it will be ready to serve.